It was 9 .00 am at the Mesilau Resort, Kundasang, at the foot of Mt Kinabalu on 28/4/07, listening to our leader on his last minutes briefing before the climb.
“ That’s it “. I said to myself. After months of training, the moment has finally come. I was excited yet anxious, wondering if I could ever make it to the summit
We checked in at Mesilau Resort ( with altitude exceeding 2,000m,it’s higher than Cameron Highland ) the night before, to have a good rest and to acclimatize ourselves for the ascend. It was raining in the night and staying at the chalets equipped with heater, it was comfortable though the air outside was bearably cold.
There are at least two routes to Mt Kinabalu – via the Mesilau or the Timpohan trails. We chose the former, though 2 km longer than the latter, for it offers some interesting flora & fauna and breath taking view, so I was told. So the 14 of us started the climb at 9.35am .
Our group leader, Tony Q, who has reached the peak several times, told us that the from Mesilau to Laban Rata, it’s a journey of 8km and usually take about 5 – 8 hours for average people. We were told not to be too gang-ho and raced to the top but should instead track slowly, letting our body to adjust to the altitude where the oxugen level is lower. “ You must be kidding?”, I thought to myself. “ Race to the top ? I would very happy if I can reach the peak, safe and sound “ . Indeed, that was my mental altitude guiding me through out the climb, not to pace after my other fitter team members, but to enjoy what nature has to offer .
Hiring guides is a must. Hiring porters to help carry some of our stuff is optional but we decided to engage two to help carry our clothing & other essentials to Laban Rata, where we will put up a night before the final ascend.
We made it a point to rest for a couple of minutes at all rest areas. As we ascend, the vegetation changes from sub-tropical tall trees to temperate short trees and shrub. Yes, the view was good and certainly I have taken many photo-shots along the way. However, other than some friendly squirrels, birds, i did not see any other animals. Sure, we saw some blue, orange and red cherries, pitcher plants with vibrant clours and other plants which I don’t see in my treks in Peninsular Malaysia. “What happened ? “, I asked Vivian, a Sabahan, told me that there used to be many exotic plants like wild orchids growing abundantly on tree trunks. But because of the irresponsible attitudes of some hikers who plucked & took them home, the numbers are fast dwindling. I certainly can vouch for that.
Traversing mountain tops, ridges and valleys with crystal clear mountain streams flowing underneath the bridges, Mesilau trail was indeed scenic. Lady luck was with us as the sky was clear and the tract dry. Approaching altitude of between 10,000-11,000 feet I found myself stopping more frequently for air. But upon reaching Laban Rata, with Mt Kinabalu standing majestically in the background and the vast expense of blue dotted with pockets of cloud below us, the view was magnificient and the feeling exhilarating. The temperature reading then was 12 degrees Celsius at 5.30 pm.
Surprisingly, at 11,000 feet high, Laban Rata Rest House do offer reasonable varieties of ala carte foods and hot drinks to soothe our tired bodies. It was like a mini-united Nation with so many other nationalities coming for one purpose. With everything except water were carried all the way up by the porters, I found prices on food stuff not unreasonable. Indeed, on the way up, I ‘ve seen porters trudging step by step with 30-40 Kg loads on their backs.
After an early dinner & leaving Laban Rata rest house at 6.30pm, the temperature dropped to 10 degree Celsius. Our Lodge, Gunting Lagadan, was another 100 meters up. The room, has just enough space for 2 double deckers for four . We all shared, yes men & women, common shower facilities. The water heaters weren’t hot enough for us to indulge in a long shower , and the icy cold mountain water didn’t help either.
I was supposed to dose off at 9 pm so that I could wake up at 1.30 am and continue with our climb to the Low’s Peak at 2.30 am next morning. However, without the comfort of heater and the night drizzle, it was cold & couple with the daunting thought that we have to wake up early……………I just stayed awake throughout the night.
The moment finally came at 2.40 am when we followed host of others , with the assistance of our torch light, trekked up another 2.7 km to the summit. I have a better perspective of the situation after day light why our leader preferred us to “ grope in the dark, “ literally. looking at the gradient & the trail, one might be tempted not to proceed with the climb in broad day light. Certain parts of the trail was treacherous and you can’ t afford to make mistake.
The air was getting thinner, and I have to stop every 15-20 steps to gasp for oxygen. As we approached Sayat Sayat Hut, the last check point at 12,500 feet, beyond which there was hardly any vegetation but molten rocks. Along the way, some climbers with height phobia were seen trembling and requiring help. But I just admired their courage!
The best time to see the sun rise was to reach Low's peak before 5.00 am. Alas, I reached the peak @ 5.30 am. “I have made it , finally”, I exclaimed to myself. The feeling was wonderful. It was a little cloudy but with the morning rays filtering through the clouds, the view was spectacular. The sight of a foreign lady - must be a retiree, i thought, overcame with emotion with tears welling up in her eyes touched my hearts. She has finally reached the peak on her third attempt..
It was cold up there especially when the wind blows. The temperature then was about 2-5 degree Celsius. I was told that it could drop to sub-zero at times especially when there was heavy downpour the night before.
All in, it took me about 3 hours to reached the peak But Ah Fook, who hails from Kuantan, was the first to reach the peak @ 4.30 am. Not surprisingly, if you consider the fact that he ran full marathon bare-footed and carried extra 20 kg loads during his trainings.
Chey (Left 3)
Tony (Red Jacket), Chey (Right)
Descending the peak at 7 am and looking at the steepness of the slope, I wonder if I would ever attempt the climb in daylight. To my surprise, the descend was pleasant & not so daunting after all. Perhaps, it could be the fact that I have already made it !
After a late breakfast at 10.30 am at Laban Rata, it was another grueling 4 hours trek, all downhill to Timpohan gate. I found this particularly tough as my knees and joints hurt . However, Nazri, our guide confided that his best time ever, running and jumping down from the peak to Timpohan gate was a mere 48 minutes ! So, what I can say but to walk and walk ? It was a great relief to see my other members at the Timpohan gate at 3.40 pm. With so may of us being first timers, the joy was evident on our face.
Our reward: having the satisfaction of reaching the Peak of South East Asia highest mountain and two colourful certificates to boast off.
As I penned my thought , I was on a reflective mood. Yes, reaching the highest peak in South East Asia was a bonus, but the real joy and learning was in the process of preparing, training and getting to know a bunch of wonderful fellas who are health freak with positive values……and of course the journey with a single thought, nothing else, of reaching the top.
Based on my observation , for first timers, it is extremely important to have an experienced leader who will guide you not only during the climb but also during the preparation stage which require three months and more.
To our coach, Tony Q, you have done a superb job. Will I revisit Mt Kinabalu again ? You bet, I certainly would..
By Chey Onn Wah
1st timer to Mt KK.
24th May 2007.
